Twenty-two graduates weave their own cloth in Copenhagen

Twenty-two graduates of the Swedish School of Textiles presented their Spring/Summer 2027 collections at Langelinie Pavilion during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Iris Phillips opened the show with sculptural leather silhouettes concerned less with cut than with the posture a garment imposes. What followed shared a method rather than a look: the cloth had not been bought in, it had been made.

Ilya Nyuganen used wool woven, felted and knitted within a single collection. Sally Bjerre Gaarde paired coarse weaves with machine embroidery, Ebba Carlson Persson turned disco-ball fragments and neon into wearable light, and Tuula Wallace borrowed joinery logic from Danish furniture. Mop-like shoes, nail-covered trousers and a beanbag handbag walked the same runway. The spectacle travels well on social platforms, but the substantive claim sits underneath it: these designers know the loom, not only the sketch, and that is where the industry's material questions will be settled.